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  • Cutting Striplights - every 3 lights there's a "cut mark" where it can be cut off; both pieces will work with a 12V power source
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  • The paper back protects the adhesive.  It must be pealed back for soldering.
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  • The copper is coated, but sandpaper takes it off easily
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  • Newer LEDs have the "universal" configuration of connectors, but the left and right pairs are actually connected together - even though it looks like 4 terminals, electrically there are really only two.
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  • When I use un-marked wire, I mark one of the leads so I can keep track of "+" and "-"
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  • separate the ends
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  • Pinch the insulation part way off, then twist the strands into a single wire.  Keep twisting as you pull the insulation the rest of the way off.
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  • the EL-66 with the small pin makes the target holes the right size
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  • I use the outer target of the pairs to keep the heat of soldering as far away from the LED as possible
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  • Make sure all of the "+" on the LEDs connect to the same color wire in your whole project.
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  • Cleaning the end of a soldering iron will allow solder to coat the tip
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  • I am using "resin-core solder" which has flux in a hollow tube in the center. Flux is necessary to make the solder flow into the strands of the wire and to fill the hole
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  • Getting a coating of solder on the end of the soldering iron will make the transfer of heat to the wire better.
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  • I am heating the wire and letting the solder flow into the wire and from there into the hole.  The least solder that fills the hole is the best product!
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  • Cutting off the extra wire... nail clippers does this best
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  • This is a good finished product... very little solder but enough to fill the wire and the hole
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  • It works!.  Too much heat can damage the first LED, which ruins the first section (3 lights).  Even if that does happen the rest of the strip will still be good.
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