Access Tapewire with drilled holes for the Connection Wire
Click on the picture for a printable copy
This slideshow has the connection wire very close to the floor... but it's easier if you make the connections 1/2" above the floor.
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The same measure under the Foundation (the "cellar")
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Mark where the Tapewire Run will be above the Base Floor
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Carve away the Foundation to get close to the wall surface
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This is a 1/2" thick Foundation - I am removing about half of it (1/4")
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A scrap of Tapewire helps me know where to drill
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This is the angle that will get me close to the wall
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Lots of spin, not too much push, and clear the drillings often
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The drill breaks thru - aim for as close to the wall as possible
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Now the second hole - lined up with the other side of the Tapewire
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Lots of spin, clear often, don't overpower the bit or it will break
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Speaker wire at least 24 gauge - solid core is easier to use
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Tape the Connection Wire to the Base so it won't keep falling out
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The Tapewire "Main Loop" begins here. If you are going to use LEDs, the center wire of the Jack should go to the Copper lead of the Tapewire
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Lined up at the bottom with the wire and at the top with the E-Slot
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The EL66 tool is easiest for punching holes
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Punch a hole about 1/2" up (less than 3/4!) and centered on the Tapewire lead
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Poke the end of the Connection Wire into the hole
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The EL66 is the easiest way to insert eyelets - this is a small hollow eyelet
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Insert the eyelet into the hole along with the Connection Wire
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You can drive the Eyelets in with a hammer of you use the EL66
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The eyelet holds the wire in the hole and makes a good electrical connection
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Poke the end of the Connection Wire into the hole
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This wire goes to the outer lead on the Jack
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Arrange the wires and drive the eyelets to make it as flush as possible
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